There should be a law that boat designers should be forced to service their own boats. That might make common maintenance tasks, like changing engine oil, a little easier. In most inboard or I/O engine installations, changing engine oil is looked on with the same fervor as going to the dentist.

Most marine engine manufacturers recommend changing engine oil every 100 to 200 hours of operation or at least annually. Frankly, most marine engines aren’t used often enough to cause any appreciable amount of breakdown in the oil. However, the marine environment means that there may well be moisture accumulating in the idle engine. Changing engine oil on a regular basis (as well as the filter) will help prolong the life of your engine.

If you are one of the lucky ones who can get a drain pan under the engine and easily drain the oil, consider yourself lucky and retire to the bar. For the rest of us, we’ll cover various methods of draining the oil, from simple to complex.

Preparation

Make a few simple preparations before changing oil, regardless of how simple or complex your oil-changing method is. The first step is to properly warm up your engine. There are several reasons for this. First, warm oil is easier to drain out of the engine. Second, the whole reason behind changing the oil is to get all the contaminates out of the engine with the oil. Running the engine puts all the crud that settled out in the bottom of the oil pan back in suspension in the oil.

Make sure you have enough containers to hold all the old oil. Many people use old plastic milk jugs to hold the oil. Tight fitting tops lessen the likelihood of a messy spill. Have a good supply of oil absorbing pads ready to deploy around and under the engine. Have enough of the right grade of oil and the proper filter at hand. Don’t forget the filter wrench.

Simple – Manual Systems

The simplest oil change systems are manual pumps that access the engine oil through the dipstick tube. A small flexible tube is snaked down the dipstick tube to the bottom of the oil pan and the oil is then sucked out.

There are three main styles of manual pumps readily available at your marine store. The first is a metal container with a pump attached. The pickup tube that goes into the pickup tube fits into a larger tube with a pinch clamp. This clamp seals off the hose and allows the pump to build up a vacuum in the metal container. When the clamp is loosened, the vacuum sucks out the oil.

These pumps are simple, well built and last for years. The downside is that the capacity o the container is limited and may require emptying during the course of an oil change. The pickup tube is easily snaked down the dipstick but is a little on the small side, resulting in a slower flow of oil.

There is also a plastic bodied manual pump. This pump has a direct action in that the handle is moved up and down to directly suck the oil into the plastic container. This means you don’t have to stop and build up a vacuum as in the pump mentioned above. However, Like that pump, capacity of the container is limited and may require emptying during the course of an oil change.

The last style of pump is a handheld piston pump. This pump has a pickup hose that either screws onto a threaded dipstick tube or is snaked down through the tube and an output hose. In fact, it looks like a small version of a handheld bilge pump. The output hose is directed into a container (milk jug?) to hold the oil while the pump is held and the handle pushed in and out.

The pump capacity is small, making the oil change a long and tiring effort. The loose output tube stuffed into a jug is a mess just waiting to happen. You did put oil pads under the jugs, didn’t you?

Simple – Electric Systems

Okay, the manual pumps sound like a lot of work, so let’s see what electricity can do for us. The simplest electric pump is the drill pump. The pump uses a rubber impeller in a plastic housing to pump the oil. The motive power for this style pump is a drill. You tighten the pump shaft in the drill chuck and turn it on.

Of course, you have the input tube stuck down the dipstick tube, the output tube stuck into a jug, the pump body in one hand and the drill motor in the other. See any potentially messy problems here? One other caveat, make sure the impeller in the pump is rated for petroleum products; some pumps are only rated for water.

Pumps mounted on buckets are a step up from the handheld drill pumps. These have a (usually) 12 volt impeller pump mounted on the lid a of a three to five gallon metal or plastic bucket. A power cord with alligator clips on the end allows the pump to be connected to a 12-volt battery for power. Most have on-off switches and some have reversing switches so the contents of the bucket can be pumped out.

The input hose can be a type that screws onto a threaded dipstick or have a tube to snake down through the dipstick. There are a few nagging problems with this style of pump. Empty, they are top heavy and hard to store. Some users solve this problem by keeping the pump in a plastic milk crate for stability. Put an oil pad in the bottom of the crate to soak up any dribbles. It is sometimes hard to find a stable flat location for the pump in the bilge of the boat and ready access to 12-volt power may be problematic. Filled, the bucket is a heavy object to move around and off the boat.

One refinement in using this system is to replace the oil pan drain plug with an elbow and a length of hose. The other end of the hose comes out from under the engine and can be connected to the pump/bucket. Make sure the hose is rated for petroleum products, can be sealed at the open end and isn’t subject to chafe or wear.

Complex Systems

Many larger boats, especially trawlers, have permanently installed oil-changing systems. These usually consist of hoses from the bottom of the oil pans connected to a manifold and pump assembly. This manifold and pump assembly is permanently bolted to a bulkhead.

There are several different models available. Variations allow from one to five or six connections to be drained through the manifold. Why five or six? Twin engines with transmissions as well as gen sets can all be connected to a manifold/pump unit and drained AND REFILLED selectively. When contemplating an oil change on a big Caterpillar main propulsion engine, it’s transmission and a 7.5 KW genset; you don’t want to be thinking about a three or five-gallon portable bucket pump.

Many of these systems are professionally installed but are certainly within the capabilities of a dedicated boater. The pumps, manifolds and connectors are available though most marine stores. The hoses used are 1/2-inch type A petroleum rated hose. Runs over ten feet long should use 5/8-inch hoses. Make sure you have the right oil pan fittings, as there are several different sizes, including metric fittings. Cross threading an oil pan fitting will certainly ruin your day as well as the pan.

Oil Disposal

No oil change is complete until the old oil is properly disposed of. Many, if not most, marinas have proper places for disposing of old oil. If not, many auto parts stores will also accept used oil free or for a nominal price. Be careful in moving the containers around, you are liable for spills, whether from fuel or oil.

There is another way of disposing of old engine oil if you have a diesel engine, mixing it with the diesel fuel. This is a very controversial subject among the diesel folks, some swear by and others at it. The idea is that you can mix up to 10% old oil in the diesel fuel. The oil should be filtered and well mixed with some diesel before being put into the tank.

It’s probably not a good idea in places with many proper disposal sites. However, if you were on a long cruise or at sea with no proper facilities, it would be better to burn it than dumping it over the side. As mentioned above, it is controversial and not a universally accepted practice.

by Captain Pauley Esterly

Paul’s involvement in boating dates back to the early sixties. He spent five years working for West Marine in store management as well as developing and holding store seminars and organizing district events. He is currently based at the head of the Chesapeake Bay where he maintains his small fleet of classic plastic sailboats, which provide the subject matter for Paul’s many do-it-yourself boating articles. He is active in Boating Writers International, Seven Seas Cruising Association and the United States Power Squadrons.

Annual Maintenance Routine and Antifouling Bottom Job

Shortsighted boat owners who lengthen the time between haul outs cost money in the long run. Conventional wisdom says it pays to haulout annually for hull painting and maintenance, but some folks stretch that period to 18 months or even two years. The pro know better and keep their bottoms as clean as their topsides.

Once a Year

“I recommend hauling out every year to catch the bottom before the growth starts to build,” said Joe Zammataro, service manager at V&G Yachtworks in Dania Beach. “Because once the growth starts to build, that’s when you get water penetration and lose performance and fuel efficiency.”

Overall, the haulout service for a 50-foot vessel focuses on three main categories: running gear, through-hull fittings and bottom paint. Each category is important, and within each are sub-categories that may or may not pertain to a vessel, depending on the hull material, age and known performance and mechanical problems.

Running Gear

“Some boaters pay very little attention to their running gear,” said Michael Carey of Florida Marine in Riviera Beach. “If it’s not aligned and working properly they are just throwing money away in regard to efficiency and wear and tear.”

Most captains have picked up clues during the boat’s operation that there could be a running gear malfunction, indicated by prop vibration or poor engine performance. Once the boat is hauled out and blocked, the service team works on the running gear problems first, because parts may need to be ordered.

“The props can be sent outside the yard for dynamic balancing, and back in time for re-launching,” said Michael Bach, service and sales manager for Rybovich Spencer in West Palm Beach. “The performance records on board and other fixed datum give the propeller shops the required information to tune the props. The boat’s records also help determine whether more work needs to be done, such as drawing the shafts out of the boat. You will only do that when needed.”

Running gear and outdrives will be cleaned of fouling, and can be painted with special paint systems. Zinc anodes are usually replaced even though some of the old anode is still there. Strut bearings will be inspected to check for excess clearance, and strut bolts are checked for tightness, corrosion or leakage. Engine mounts are checked if vibration has occurred.

“A good tip is to do a thorough sea trial prior to hauling the vessel,” said Paul Engle, president and general manager of Bradford Marine in Fort Lauderdale. “That way problems can be pinpointed a lot faster.”

Through-Hull Fittings

A physical inspection of all the through-hull fittings is done. Metal through-hulls last longer and are more damage resistant, but they will also corrode, and the evidence of corrosion is a green or white residue. Plastic through-hulls are non-corrosive but will degrade after long-term exposure to ultra-violet light.

Inlets for the engines and generators, and drains for the bilge and other outlets, are fitted with seacocks. Seacocks allow the through-hull to be closed off, and the position of a lever-type handle tells you instantly if it is open or closed.

The service team will inspect the through-hulls and seacocks, remove marine growth and inspect for corrosion and degradation. Prevention is key to ensuring seacocks work properly, and its recommended that the seacock handle should be moved through its fully closed and fully opened path once a month.

Bottom Painting

The last step in the process is prepping the hull and applying the bottom paint. The purpose of bottom painting is to prevent the growth of barnacles and other evidences of fouling on the bottom of the boat. Almost all recreational boaters use an ablative paint that wears off over time. Conventional, or hard paint is used in high-performance applications, where keeping drag to a minimum is crucial.

For well-maintained boats, the bottom-painting procedure is similar for fiberglass-, aluminum- and steel-hulled boats. The bottom is mechanically sanded and profile work is done, and then the ablative paint is applied. However, a fiberglass boat that hasn’t been hauled in a few years would probably have blister problems. Steel boats that have been in the water a long time would likely be suffering from corrosion, as would aluminum boats. Boats with these problems need more preparation work, and costs increase with the additional time and labor.

Some boaters scrub their own hull bottom monthly or quarterly, or hire someone to do it. This can extend the time between haulouts for bottom paintwork, but obviously does not address running gear or through-hull maintenance. Also be aware that when you clean the bottom, you also clean off the paint that protects the bottom.

The proper sanding and removal of old paint and the prep of the bottom is crucial to getting a long-lasting paint job. Ablative paint polymers wash away slowly over time with water movement, and the fouling organisms are scrubbed away with it.

Paint is normally applied by a roller, although some yards apply paint with a sprayer. A sprayer is often used on larger boats. One coat of paint is normally sufficient for boats that will be hauled annually. “Unless the customer is going to be gone on a long trip for two or three years, we feel that one coat will last a year,” Engle said. “Otherwise it gets expensive for the customer.

Service Timeline

On a 50-foot fiberglass sportfishing boat with a good maintenance record, a haulout, service and re-launch can be completed in four to five days. The caveat to that time frame concerns what the service team finds once the boat is out of the water. In general, though, here’s how a haulout usually proceeds:

1) Haul boat out, pressure wash immediately before the hull dries

2) Block the boat and stage for out-of-water work

3) Inspect and confirm the work list and original estimate

4) Negotiate and finalize add-on work found during out-of-water inspection

5) Begin work on clearances, running gear, propellers

6) Inspect and repair through-hull fittings

7) Remove and replace zinc anodes

Prep the hull and apply bottom paint

9) After paint is properly cured, re-launch boat

Cost

Research the fees associated with hauling out. A good rule of thumb is $26 per foot, and that should cover the haulout, paint, labor and blocking. Other yards charge by the square footage of the bottom. Other fees that may be added on include insurance on the job and an EPA charge to dispose of hazardous waste. EPA charges run about 2.5 percent of the bottom job quote.

by Doug Thompson

Doug is currently the Publisher of www.VehiclesTEST.com, an independent vehicle testing company that produces third-party video tests of current-generation vehicles. Thompson works on freelance marine, outdoors and clean-energy projects and was the editor of Powerboat Magazine, Bass & Walleye Boats Magazine, the Executive Editor of ShowBoats International, the Outdoors Editor for the Ventura County Star the Ski Editor for The Vail Trail Newspaper. Thompson has written about boats and the outdoors since graduating from the University of Colorado in 1986 with a B.S. Journalism degree. Thompson lives in Hollywood, Florida, with his wife and son.

How do I keep my boat from smelling foul when I open it back up in the spring?

The key is to banish the “stink fuel” before you close the boat up for winter. What I mean is you need to get rid of all the things that mold, mildew and other smelly organisms need to flourish. Start with the obvious stuff, like empty the refrigerator (and wipe out with Yacht Brite Serious Marine Cleaner), remove all food and liquids, and remove or prop up all cushions to encourage airflow. Also, leave all storage open for air to circulate. Then, clean and vacuum and place dehumidifier bags around the cabin (two to three bags for 36-feet- plus). Then it is time to really attack moisture.

So that means I have to clean out the bilge and plumbing, too, right?

Cleaning the bilge, the drains and the sump prior to winterization is absolutely crucial to keep odors and bacteria from becoming a problem. The boat can absorb the odors and mildew that grow in moist, dark environments and they will spread throughout the boat. Clean the bilge with Serious Marine Cleaner; spray it on and absorb with paper towels or rags, or drain the soapy water in approved drains. Rinse and dry the area.

Then use Yacht Brite Moldaway to clean the drains in sinks, showers, etc. Put a scoop into each drain with a cup of water, let it work for a few minutes, then rinse. Moldaway will clean and deodorize drains without harming the piping. It will also help clean the sump container by oxygenating the sump water, killing mold/mildew spores and other bacteria, safely and without bleach. Depending on where your boat is stored, your yard may suggest you flush marine antifreeze through the system.

Is there anything special we need to do for our soft surfaces, like carpets and canvas?

The cleaner these surfaces are, the better they will look upon recommissioning. First, vacuum and shampoo your carpet with Serious Marine Cleaner, and let it dry before sealing up the boat. This will reduce the likelihood of any bacteria growing there. Remove cockpit carpet if possible; minimally, roll it up and store in the cabin after it’s cleaned.

It is best to remove your canvas and store it in a dry environment if you can, then clean it in spring with Moldaway or Brite Wash. Isinglass should be cleaned with Brite Wash, followed by Pro Polish, then rolled between soft towels for storage.

What about the cockpit, topsides and the hull?

Clean the cockpit and seating area with Brite Wash and Serious Marine Cleaner, and finish with Serious Shine. Then give a complete topside and hull wash with Brite Wash, followed by a good waxing for extra off-season protection.

A clean bottom and drive gear are also very important; make sure you reference your owner’s care guide for drive/propulsion maintenance. Painted bottoms should be washed with a pressure washer and/or plain water with a soft-to-medium brush. Soaps and detergents are generally not used on painted bottom surfaces. Unpainted bottoms sometimes have attached growth and require professional care by a marine tech. Scum lines, though, can be cleaned with Brite Wash or Serious Marine Cleaner and a soft brush with lots of water nearby for rinsing. Again, wax is a good idea.

Is that it?

Well, no. Then there are all of your mechanical, electronic and other systems to be readied for a long winter’s nap. You absolutely must consult your owner’s manuals on these crucial tasks, because it can affect your warranty.

If you’re not satisfied with the way your fiberglass boat performs, a different prop might be the key to significant improvement.

Before shopping for a prop, think about what disappoints you with your current setup. Do you want a better hole shot? Do you want to go faster for long runs in a tournament? Do you just want better handling?

Use the following information to guide your search for the prop that will provide the performance you desire.

Prop for optimum performance

In the owner’s manual, find your outboard’s recommended operating range, expressed in engine RPM. This is a key number because propping to get top speed at the top end of the RPM range translates into the most efficient setup you can get. You’ll get the best fuel economy this way, as well. It’s also important to know the range in order to keep from selecting a prop that will take your engine outside the recommended RPM range.

Diameter and Pitch

All props include diameter and pitch specifications. Imagine a circle that a prop will fit inside snugly. Prop diameter is the diameter of that circle – the distance across the prop from edge to edge, with the line running through the center of the hub.

The pitch number represents the theoretical distance your boat will move for each revolution of the prop without any slippage. Both specs are given in inches. So, a 15×21 prop has a 15-inch diameter, and it is designed to move a boat 21 inches per revolution without any slippage. Some slippage always occurs, so the actual pitch will vary slightly.

How many blades?

Many OEM props – especially those on lower-horsepower outboards – are aluminum. They are less expensive than stainless steel props, and are generally 3-blade units. In many cases – especially when optimum performance is a concern – a stainless steel prop is the way to go. They are available as 3- and 4-blade models, which provide more options.

In general, 3-blade props offer the highest speed. However, there are situations when a 4-blade prop will deliver higher speeds because you can trim them higher and, as a result, get better bow lift. The less bow contact your boat has with the water at full plane, the less drag – and less drag translates to higher speeds.

Consider a 4-blade prop if your goal is a better hole shot because that’s one of its advantages. A 4-blade prop also has less slippage, so it will stay on plane at lower RPM.

Other variables

It’s best to comparison-test props whenever possible. When you test, have your boat set up the way you routinely use it. Testing with unusually low fuel levels and/or with most of your gear removed to save weight isn’t going to provide real-world results. If you fish, test your props with a full load of fuel, all your tackle or gear and if possible with a buddy along for the ride. If you’re looking to improve hole-shot performance in you ski boat, test with the fuel load and gear you usually carry, and try to bring a few friends along to recreate your routine passenger load.

Your boat top and canvas enclosures can really add to your boating enjoyment. Who hasn’t been glad to shut out the bugs in the spring or enjoy some shade from the sun, thanks to a canvas enclosure like a cockpit cover, camper top, or convertible top? Here are some pointers to help you treat the canvas fabric and sections of clear vinyl, isinglass, Plexiglas, or strata glass for years of trouble-free use.

How to Care for Your Canvas Enclosures and Clear Vinyl

• Keep all canvas and clear vinyl clean so dirt, roof particles, etc., can’t accumulate and become embedded. Brush off loose dirt (use soft cloth on clear vinyl parts), then hose down and clean with a mild solution of natural soap in lukewarm water (we recommend Brite Wash®).

• Rinse with fresh cold water after each use, especially in saltwater areas.

• Handle the clear vinyl carefully – it will scratch easily. To keep it soft and flexible, apply a UV-screening agent with a microfiber towel (we recommend Serious Shine®).

• The most common mistake is rolling up wet canvas enclosure panels for storage. This causes fog and stains on the window panels. Make sure the canvas panels and Eisenglass are fully dried before rolling up for storage. Do not fold.

• When unfastening the canvas, unsnap it as close to each button as possible to prevent damage to the fabric. Never yank the canvas from one edge to remove it. Take care of zippers – don’t use force and be especially gentle at the start of the zipper. If the snaps or zippers are difficult to use, apply a stick lubricant. We recommend Snap-Stick® to avoid the damage that gels or sprays can cause to the surrounding canvas.

• Always remove canvas enclosures for trailering to avoid damage.

• Prevent mold by storing in an area that’s dry and well ventilated.

Cleaning Canvas

Brush off loose dirt, then hose down and clean with a mild solution of natural soap such as Brite Wash® in lukewarm water. If your canvas requires deeper cleaning, the technique will depend on the type of canvas. Never dry clean or put in your washing machine.

Cleaning Clear Vinyl

• First flood the area with water to rinse off dirt. Next, use your hand with the water to feel and dislodge any caked dirt or mud. Then, use a soft, clean microfiber towel with a non-abrasive soap or detergent. Finally, blot dry with a clean, damp microfiber towel.

• Never use a dry cloth or duster. Glass-cleaning solutions are also a no-no.

• Never use solvents containing acetone, silicone spray, benzene, carbon tetrachloride, fire extinguisher fluid, dry-cleaning fluid, or lacquer thinner.

• Remove fine scratches with yacht Brite Pro Polish®, followed by Yacht Brite Serious Shine®.