Because of today’s high prices for new outboards, used engines are steadily becoming a lot more attractive to those of us who have limited financial resources. The good news is there are definitely some great buys to be had, provided you do a little homework. So here are some noteworthy pitfalls to avoid when checking out a second-hand kicker. And if you’re not mechanically inclined, consider hiring the after-hours service of an outboard mechanic to assist you because nowadays “used” does not necessarily mean “cheap,” and thus your investment will likely still be significant.

Overall Appearance

Considering that for at least the past decade all major outboard makers have been using primarily corrosion-resistant materials, if it looks like it has been regularly “rode hard and put up wet,” pass. All it takes to keep it looking good is the regular application of a little soap, water, and anti-corrosion lubricant. Saltwater is tougher on engines than fresh, so if it looks bad on the outside it almost certainly hasn’t been maintained internally very well, either. This especially includes regular flushing of the cooling system with fresh water.

Age is certainly a factor, but still I’d be more likely to choose a 3- or 4-year old engine that showed positive signs of good care and maintenance (especially if it met the other criteria listed below) over a 2-year old that looked like the end result of a corrosion experiment gone horribly wrong.

The Powerhead

Remove the cover (be wary if the fit is loose when it is designed to be tight; that could indicate it has been pulled too frequently for repairs and other problems) and visually check for signs of neglect or damage. Blistered paint would indicate serious overheating, for instance. Signs of heavy tool use on bolts and screws are also a warning. Ditto any signs of water leakage around gaskets, especially the white powdery residue that goes with saltwater. And while the cover is off, now is the time to perform the next five steps:

(1) Look for cracked, burned, or otherwise damaged wire insulation, especially where it exits a fitting (e.g. spark plugs, magneto, coils). Ditto insulation repaired with any type of tape. Cracks in the cover of any electrical component are also warning signs.

(2) Pull all spark plugs and check for excessive deposits of any type. Seriously dirty plugs can interfere with the engine’s performance, sometimes enough to cause random misfires that put excessive loads on the crankshaft, connecting rods, and their associated bearings – and eventually cause expensive damage.

(3) Check the ignition system. If you don’t have an ignition tester handy, you can easily make a simple version in a few minutes. When the engine is cranked, each sparkplug circuit should fire with a bright blue spark.

(4) Compression should be within factory limits. Find out the proper cylinder compression levels for the make and model you’re contemplating. All cylinders should be checked with a compression gauge, and if they’re outside these tolerances, give that engine a bye because it almost certainly has had a lot of hard use at excessively high rpms. Even if inside the recommended range, there should be no more than 10 percent variation among all cylinders from the highest pressure reading to the lowest.

(5) The top main bearings should still be reasonably tight. This means there should be no play at all when you grab the flywheel and try to rock it from side to side. Nor should you be able to pull the flywheel upward, either. If the top bearings are loose, this indicates serious wear and you can bet the bottom mains are badly worn too. This alone means you’re looking at a whopper of a repair bill. If both (4) and (5) fail to pass the test, the reality is a new or completely rebuilt powerhead.

Lower Unit

Contrary to popular belief, paint worn off the skeg is not necessarily indicative of abuse. It’s a common result of shallow water operation. BUT a damaged skeg (pieces broken off), bent blade(s) on the prop, and especially a bent shaft should make you very wary. Rebuilding a badly damaged lower unit and gear case is second only to the powerhead in terms of repair cost.

A bent propeller shaft is not always easy to detect by eye, so to be safe it’s a good idea to pull the prop and hold a straightedge against the shaft. Rotate the shaft slowly by hand and look carefully; if there is even a tiny bit of wobble, lower unit seals and bearings won’t last long and it doesn’t take a crystal ball to see that a major repair bill is in your near future.

Loosen the top screw-in plug in the lower unit oil system sufficiently to allow air to seep in, then remove the bottom plug long enough to see if any water comes out with the oil – a sure sign of leaky seals. Even a tiny bit of water is unacceptable. It’s also not a bad idea to strain a little of that oil through a cloth to see if it contains metal particles.

Once water – and especially saltwater – starts entering the gear case it will eventually displace all of the oil. And if it’s there long enough the gears will rust or crystallize and start breaking off teeth. It only takes one loose gear tooth to destroy all the gears.

The Gas Tank

This applies to all outboards, regardless of whether the tank is atop the powerhead, a portable remote, or built into the boat. Take the top off and use your nose to determine if the gas has a “fresh” smell. Use a small flashlight to visually inspect as much of the interior as you can see (a match or cigarette lighter is definitely NOT recommended for this procedure!). Gummy deposits and stale gasoline are sure signs of potential carburetor problems. If the tank is a remote portable, it can simply be replaced. But for an integral tank, expect to add the cost of a steam cleanout to the almost certain cost of an expensive carburetor cleaning/rebuilding job.

Try Before You Buy

The best way is on a boat of suitable size for that horsepower. Lacking that, in a test tank with one of those special props designed for that purpose (at least for engines over 10 hp). It should start easily, idle smoothly, and accelerate all the way to full throttle without missing. And it should pump cool water in good volume without interruption. If buying a big engine, spend a few bucks to have a dealer test it for horsepower output on a dynamometer.

Other Considerations

Is the engine still within warranty? Some manufacturers offer optional extended warranties for up to an additional three years (also definitely a good buy for the current owner contemplating the sale of an engine). If buying used from a dealer, consider the firm’s reputation and also ask about some sort of “dealer warranty” (some offer up to 90 days).

If the engine is a 4-cycle, you should also consider the oil sump in the powerhead since no oil is added to the gasoline for internal lubrication. Is the oil level correct? At least some makes require that the engine be run long enough at a fast idle to be thoroughly warmed up before the dip stick is pulled to check this. And is the oil reasonably clean? Since outboards run on water where the air is a lot cleaner than most roads and streets, the oil tends to stay reasonably clear a bit longer. If it’s really black with dirt and feels gritty when rubbed between the thumb and forefinger, it probably wasn’t changed when it should have been.

And finally, what about the owner’s manual? If the seller doesn’t have it, get one before you close the deal. Check the engine’s specifications and recommended operating procedures. The information contained therein could save you from some unpleasant surprises down the road.

by Bob Stearns

Bob, the editor-at-large for Saltwater Sportsman Magazine and a senior editor for Center Console Angler, has published over 1,600 feature articles and columns in many popular national magazines, such as Boating, Rudder, Motorboat, Field & Stream, Salt Water Fly Fishing and many others. He has also authored several books and appeared on numerous fishing TV programs. As a consultant, he has worked with boat and boating materials manufacturers, and fishing tackle manufacturers on product development and design.

Let’s assume that by now you have a good idea what you’re looking for, and it’s safe to say you know the differences between a center console bay boat, a bigger rig for offshore, a bass boat, a flats boat, a do-almost-everything aluminum semi-vee aluminum utility, and a jon boat (also a bare-bones utility that’s ideal for ultra-skinny water use, and also lends itself so well to extensive, also inexpensive, customizing).

So now it’s primarily a matter of finding what you want without getting burned in the process. Price, of course, is a major consideration – otherwise you’d likely be looking for something new.

First, if you’ve never bought a used rig before, when you go to look at a potential buy it is a good idea to at least take an experienced friend with you. If the boat is reasonably large (e.g. over 20 feet), it might even be a good idea to spend a few bucks on a professional marine surveyor. Most surveyors charge somewhere around $10 to $15 per foot, a small cost compared to the big bucks it can save you later on. And if it’s over 20 feet, you may not even be able to get a bank to finance it and/or an insurance company to cover it without the services of an accredited marine surveyor.

Even if you do take someone with you to help “survey” the vessel, you can still do a lot yourself if you keep your eyes open. There are some tell-tale signs you should definitely look for.

Appearance

A boat that has been well cared for will look almost new, even if it is 10 years old. Especially if kept under cover when not in use. Of all the materials out there, wood suffers the effects of weather soonest. Fiberglass and Kevlar resist the sun and rain much better, and aluminum – other than perhaps cosmetic damage to paint and graphics – is certainly the most durable.

This doesn’t mean that wood is a no-no. I’ve fished out of some really nice wood boats, a few of which were 20 years old and looked like new. Proper storage and periodic repair/refinishing can do that. And hulls made of the stuff are wonderful for certain fishing applications because they make so little noise. And in my eye, at least, a well finished wood boat is truly a thing of beauty. But at the same time it is high maintenance. You just have to be into that sort of thing.

I’ve also been aboard fiberglass hulls that in just three seasons looked like a 20-year-old pigpen. Neglect and lack of basic maintenance can do that, too.

Wood rot is always the biggest enemy in almost any boat. It is usually obvious on wood boats if you look carefully enough. But the stringers, decks, and cockpit floors of most older fiberglass boats are also backed with wood, and thus subject to rot where you cannot see it. About the only way to find it is to put weight on those surfaces. As you walk around the boat, pay careful attention to what’s underfoot. That spongy feeling is a sure indication that something inside is definitely not what it should be.

Wood rot can be repaired. Even inside fiberglass hulls. If you find some and don’t know how to do this yourself, check with a reliable boat repair shop. And if the cost, plus the price of the boat, still adds up to reasonable numbers and the rig is otherwise just what you’re looking for, this option is worth serious consideration.

Is It Repairable?

If price is a major consideration and you’re handy with tools, the right “fixer-upper” cannot only save you a lot of hard cash, it can also become a fun project. By far the easiest boats to refurbish are aluminum, even if dented and/or with some loose rivets. As part of the reconstruction process you can also add such extras as rod racks, bait wells, water-tight storage, etc. There are lots of really nice boats out there that were once so battered and dented they looked more like a candidate for the dump than a potential fishing craft. But, before leaping into a rebuilding project, make sure there is no structural damage you cannot deal with. Cracks along the bottom of fiberglass or Kevlar boats that parallel the keel usually indicate stringer and hull damage. This could be seriously expensive to repair – if it is even worth repairing at all. Very often it isn’t.

As tough as aluminum boats may be, if the interior ribs are cracked or broken, the remedy may be more costly than the boat is worth. Usually the aluminum hull itself has also been cracked or seriously weakened in areas where rib damage occurs.

The Engine(s)

I would have to rate the engine(s) as the biggest risk in buying used. Careful inspection can usually reveal most hull damage and flaws, but engines can hide some serious problems.

First and foremost, if the exterior of the engine shows obvious neglect and abuse, pass, especially if there’s a lot of rust and/or corrosion that might indicate serious saltwater neglect. If it’s an inboard or stern drive, definitely have it checked by a competent mechanic. Many qualified mechanics will even come to the boat on their off time and do this for a reasonable fee.

Outboards are a little easier. Age and model are a good starting point. Also where it has been used. Outboards last a lot longer in freshwater than on the coast unless the latter has been cared for carefully (e.g. frequently lubed, and flushed with freshwater).

As for age, figure most boats average 100 to 150 hours of cruising engine time per year (trolling doesn’t count for any of this and engine wear at slow speeds in minimal anyway). With proper care, the average outboard is good for around 1,000 cruising hours before expensive repairs are needed. Thus, if the engine is more than five years old, check it over with extra care.

The two biggest indicators of wear and hard use are the main bearings and the cylinders. The top main bearing is under the flywheel, so if you grab it and try to rock it from side to side, it should move very little. Check all cylinders with a compression gauge. There should be only a little difference in pressure among all the cylinders; anything over 10 percent is suspect and indicates uneven wear. Find out the recommended compression range for the make/model you’re contemplating and make sure the cylinders are all within tolerances.

Any signs of cracked wiring and/or blistered paint on the powerhead should also be cause for concern.

Check the lower unit carefully for signs of visible damage. Especially the skeg; if it’s chipped or broken there obviously was a significant impact somewhere in that engine’s past.

And last but hardly least: Try before you buy! A thorough water test (sea trial) is an absolute must.

The Trailer

If it shows signs of neglect and/or abuse, figure the cost of a replacement as part of the price. Check the tires for uneven wear that could indicate worn bearings and the lights to see if they are working correctly (including the turn indicators).

If the springs are badly rusted, be wary, that also means bumpy roads are especially tough on the boat hull, too. How about the rollers and bunks, do they provide adequate support of the hull? Is the trailer even the right size for the boat? Heavy rust on the frame is cause for concern as well.

by Bob Stearns

Bob, the editor-at-large for Saltwater Sportsman Magazine and a senior editor for Center Console Angler, has published over 1,600 feature articles and columns in many popular national magazines, such as Boating, Rudder, Motorboat, Field & Stream, Salt Water Fly Fishing and many others. He has also authored several books and appeared on numerous fishing TV programs. As a consultant, he has worked with boat and boating materials manufacturers, and fishing tackle manufacturers on product development and design.

For some of us this can be a little like a love-hate event. You’re enthusiastic about the idea of a new craft, anticipating that it will be your own perfect fishing machine. But at the same time there are all those nagging doubts about whether or not you’re doing the right thing, making the right choice and maybe about knowing how you’re going to pay for it.

Nevertheless, when you get right down to it, choosing a boat is primarily a matter of logic. It doesn’t have to be a complex process, but it does deserve some serious thought. Mostly, it’s a matter of common sense, coupled with experience. Yours, if you have it. Or someone else’s that you can trust.

The Hull

By the way, that old saw about not being able to make a silk purse out of a sow’s ear was never more true than when applied to boat hulls. If the basic hull was never really suited to your purposes, there is almost always nothing you can do to make it “right,” no matter how extensive (or expensive) the modifications. So, take the trouble to look beyond styling and overall appearance, and give the hull form itself some serious thought.

That includes not only shape, but size as well. You don’t want to select a boat that’s too small if there is a chance that it could get you into serious trouble if you were caught out on an open water in seas too rough for a vessel of that size. On the other hand, buying “more” boat (e.g. bigger) than you really need because you’re unnecessarily worried about potentially rough seas also carries the risk of rendering the vessel almost completely unfishable in some situations.

Every boat is a series of compromises, and choosing the best size for you is the first of many you will have to make. Remember, a boat that’s too big won’t get into tight, shallow places if that’s where you prefer to fish. Especially if you choose the wrong hull shape because of superior riding qualities, only to find it draws too much water for where you want to go. If you find that you’re getting stuck all the time, eventually pride in ownership and anticipation of angling adventures yet to come will be replaced with frustration and disinterest. The same can be said for buying too small and trying to fish offshore in open water that’s almost always very choppy.

In either case you eventually sell it, and likely take a financial beating in the process. Meanwhile, some alert angler who sees the boat’s potential in an entirely different fishing application gets the buy of a lifetime. All because you didn’t do your homework…

If you don’t have a reasonably good idea of the size and shape of the boat that will do what you want, then the best move is to get friendly with someone who has a lot of experience in the same type of fishing you have in mind. With any luck you’ll get invited on a trip or two, and if you can resist the temptation to pick your host’s brains for fishing secrets and instead pay close attention to what you can learn about how his craft performs as a fishing platform, you’ll be seriously ahead of the game. Don’t be afraid to ask specific questions regarding his reasons for choosing that particular boat.

Since I’m assuming in this instance you’re planning to buy a new rig (I plan to cover buying used in detail in a later article), let me point out that a major part of the new boat selection process also involves choosing the right dealer.

Sea Trial It

A good dealer won’t try to stampede you into buying anything without a detailed on-the-water test or Sea Trial. And unless you are already familiar with the boat of your choice and how it performs with the horsepower you plan to use with it, definitely insist on a thorough water test first. You certainly don’t want any “surprises” after you’ve signed the contract, and most quality dealers understand this. If the dealer won’t give you a suitable test ride, then perhaps it’s time to look elsewhere.

And, of course, do not accept delivery of your new pride and joy without a water test after it is completely rigged. Just to make sure that everything works…

Choosing The Right Dealer

Water tests are just one reason why it’s very important that you be almost as careful about selecting the dealer as you are in selecting the boat. Ask around before you sign any contracts. Check with reliable boating friends, and/or the local Better Business Bureau. Beware of a hard “sell”, especially if he tries to steer you into a rig that’s more expensive than you had in mind. He may be completely honest in doing this, but examine the proposal very carefully before you buy. Above all, don’t be hustled into buying extra equipment that you don’t need because the price is “right” at that particular moment.

If you need financing, a competent dealer should be able to arrange it at competitive rates. But definitely shop around for other available rates anyway, just to be sure.

Another reason for careful choice is service. Skip any dealer who does not have a solid reputation when it comes to service, especially where warranty work on boat, engine(s), and trailer (if there is one) is concerned.

Choosing The Right Power

Once you’ve selected the hull you feel is best suited for your angling interests, the next step is to choose the proper power for it.

First, in the interests of safety, it is a good idea not to exceed the maximum recommended horsepower indicated on the manufacturer’s capacity plate. While this in itself may not be illegal, if while you own the boat it should ever be involved in any sort accident that leads to a lawsuit, exceeding the capacity plate’s maximum recommended horsepower could lead to a lot of problems. Most reputable dealers refuse to hang more horsepower on the transom than the capacity rating calls for.

How many ponies you really need depends upon how you intend to use the boat. If running long distances in open water aren’t a problem, and if getting stranded because of a total engine failure (relatively rare these days if the engine is properly maintained) doesn’t create a safety problem, then a single engine is typically the most economical choice. A single is also still pretty much unbeatable in terms of fuel economy. And if your thing is shallow water angling, a single engine is almost certainly the only practical choice because of its lower weight.

So, how much horsepower do you really need? If fuel economy is uppermost in your mind, but you still prefer the time saving convenience of cruising at planning speeds, then keep the number 25 in mind. The ideal boat/motor combination for best mpg – as indicated by hundreds of fuel and speed tests I’ve run with various boats of all makes over the past 30 years – is just enough horsepower to maintain 25 mph at 75 – 80 percent throttle. This is true for today’s 4-cycle outboards as well.

A boat capable of holding 25 mph at 4000 rpm when that engine is designed to top out at 5000 to 5500 rpm, will typically deliver a top speed in the 35 to 40 mph range; certainly enough to outrun a storm or cruise at 30 mph when time is tight.

If you’re especially concerned about fuel economy, then consider either one of the new 2-cycle direct fuel injected (DFI) engines, or a 4-cycle. Both types get around 40 percent better mpg at cruise than conventional 2-cycle outboards (including EFI models), and even more than that at slower speeds. Especially when trolling. If you plan to keep that engine for more than two years and use it a lot, a DFI or 4-cycle is definitely worth the extra cost.

Hull Materials

Aluminum still makes the lightest hulls, but Kevlar (an aramid fiber used for radial tire cords and bulletproof vests as well as boats) is close behind. Kevlar and Kevlar/carbon composites are unfortunately a lot more expensive than any other material.

Aluminum, by the way, also requires somewhat less maintenance than any other boat building material.

Fiberglass is still the most widely used for boats over 16 ft. in length, because it is strong, easy to work with, and cost-effective in boat construction. The main advantage of fiberglass and Kevlar or Kevlar/carbon is that these materials can be molded into more complex hull shapes than aluminum, a definite advantage when it comes to specialty and/or high performance craft.

by Bob Stearns

Bob, the editor-at-large for Saltwater Sportsman Magazine and a senior editor for Center Console Angler, has published over 1,600 feature articles and columns in many popular national magazines, such as Boating, Rudder, Motorboat, Field & Stream, Salt Water Fly Fishing and many others. He has also authored several books and appeared on numerous fishing TV programs. As a consultant, he has worked with boat and boating materials manufacturers, and fishing tackle manufacturers on product development and design.

Never mind all the true but sometimes overworked sayings about what “cleanliness may be next to”, there are a number of very practical reasons for keeping your boat as clean as reasonably possible. First, an accumulation of dirt, slime, rust, corrosion, and the like can cover a multitude of serious problems that could sooner or later manifest themselves in a most unpleasant manner at an extremely inopportune time. These same gritty gremlins can also contribute considerably to the rapid deterioration of the vessel’s overall appearance, soon leading to cosmetic problems that are disproportionably expensive to fix. And that, friend, can hit you right where it hurts — in the pocketbook — because no matter how sound your pride and joy may actually be, if it looks like hell it won’t sell well when the time comes.

Over the years I’ve fished with a number of individuals who ranged from the worst boat keepers afloat to a few who were almost fanatical about maintaining everything in a spotless condition. Probably the best I’ve ever seen at keeping his entire rig in pristine condition is Florida Keys guide Capt. Flip Pallot, a flats fishing specialist whose fish-finding ability matches the appearance of his boat. Most of the better professional skippers are pretty good at maintaining their craft — that goes with being a pro — but Flip is exceptional.

On the other end of the scale was a boat I “attempted” to fish from in the Gulf of Mexico along the Florida Panhandle some years ago. It was filthy to the point of being a real nose-holder. Nothing worked. The main engine quit 400 yards from the dock on our way out, and the spare couldn’t even be started. The gent that owned it was a very nice individual, but even his tackle was in the same sad shape. While being towed back to our starting point by a passing angler, I found that neither the VHF radiotelephone nor the Loran C worked. And to think that we were supposed to go 20 miles offshore in that rig.

Once dirt and grime are allowed to accumulate, getting rid of the mess becomes progressively harder at a rapidly increasing rate. On the other hand, if you’re willing to exert the slight discipline needed to attack the problem on a daily basis, it takes very little time at all. There are several quick and easy ways to do this, as I’ll cover shortly.

Whether you fish in fresh or saltwater, soap and water are an absolute must when it comes to really cleaning things up properly. Saltwater is particularly tough on everything, because on top of the “dirt factor”, there’s accelerated rust and corrosion. And salt particles (actually microscopic crystals in the shape of cubes) are extremely tenacious, resisting removal to the extent that even a heavy rainstorm won’t get them all. Only soapy water can do that properly.

Part of the penalty those of us who fish the briny sea must pay is that salt accumulates in places where it’s not visible, such as in and around connectors for electronics, wiring, metallic moving parts, and so on. Once there, it goes about its self-appointed task of attempting to destroy everything it touches; never resting for a single minute. No matter how dry the boat may appear to be — even under covered storage — any salt that remains will easily assimilate enough moisture from the air to keep doing its thing.

If you keep your boat on a trailer, salt water dripping down from the hull will pocket in all of its crevices, and only lots of soapy water will completely remove the nasty stuff. Even if the trailer is galvanized, left to its own devices saltwater can still do a lot of damage in short order.

Freshwater has its share of problems, too. Natural chemicals (i.e. vegetative stains, such as tannic acid, and dissolved lime compounds), as well as man-made pollutants, can discolor any finish — even fiberglass — very quickly. Many of these chemicals attack metals as well. In some cases, it may take more than soapy water to get rid of the ugly results.

Really stubborn stains and/or accretions of calcium precipitates are often very hard to remove from boat hulls, particularly along the waterline or inside compartments where stagnant water may have collected for many weeks. The longer any part of the boat is in constant contact with the water, the worse the problem becomes. Rust stains fall into the same category, whether from equipment and fittings that have succumbed to oxidation or well water that just has a lot of rust in it.

When trying a chemical cleaner of any sort for the first time, be sure to follow directions carefully and very carefully test it on some small part of the boat where the results won’t be visible if they’re not what you want. Such as on the keel, if you’re cleaning the outside hull.

Once you get the right equipment, and refine the procedure a little to suit your particular needs and situation, a thorough boat wash down at the end of the fishing day takes only a few minutes. That means the task should never be put off until later, even if you arrive back at the dock or ramp in the wee hours of the morning.

by Bob Stearns

Bob, the editor-at-large for Saltwater Sportsman Magazine and a senior editor for Center Console Angler, has published over 1,600 feature articles and columns in many popular national magazines, such as Boating, Rudder, Motorboat, Field & Stream, Salt Water Fly Fishing and many others. He has also authored several books and appeared on numerous fishing TV programs. As a consultant, he has worked with boat and boating materials manufacturers, and fishing tackle manufacturers on product development and design.

Paint it Yourself

At some point in the life of gelcoat, it can no longer be brought back to a new-like condition. At this stage, repainting is the answer. Repainting can be done professionally or by the boat owners themselves. Both solutions have their pros and cons.

Professional application has a guaranteed result but comes at a high cost. D-I-Y application is cheaper but requires extensive work on the part of the boat owner. The secret to any good paint job is preparation. That is what you’ll pay a professional to do or spend the time doing yourself. Scrimping here will mean a poor paint job. In some cases, you can economize by doing the prep work yourself and then have the boat professionally sprayed.

One Part Paints

Most common one-part paints today are in the form of polyurethanes. These paints can successfully be applied manually, using a technique called “rolling and tipping”. One person rolls on the paint while a second person brushes out or “tips” the paint with the tip of a dry brush. Done well, it rivals spraying. Proper thinning is critical to a smooth job.

These paints can also be sprayed. Be sure to consider where the over spray goes and that everything not to be painted is masked off. The equipment can sometimes be rented.

Two-Part Paints

The best paints available, in terms of durability and gloss retention, are the two-part polyurethane type paints. These paints are very thin, requiring multiple coats. However, they chemically harden to a very durable finish that will last for many years.

Most paints of this type are designed for professional application. In fact, many are toxic and require a positive pressure mask and spray booth when painting. Don’t try this at home!

There are a few of these paints designed to be applied manually by rolling and tipping. Several manufacturers have introduced water-based two part paint systems that can be cleaned up with water.

Proper hull preparation for these paints is even more stringent than one-part products due to the thinness of each coating. Don’t expect to hide the blemishes with paint, as it will only exaggerate them.

Finally

Fiberglass boats haven’t lived up to their early claims of being maintenance free. However, with care, your fiberglass boat can look showroom new for its entire life.

by Captain Pauley Esterly

Paul’s involvement in boating dates back to the early sixties. He spent five years working for West Marine in store management as well as developing and holding store seminars and organizing district events. He is currently based at the head of the Chesapeake Bay where he maintains his small fleet of classic plastic sailboats, which provide the subject matter for Paul’s many do-it-yourself boating articles. He is active in Boating Writers International, Seven Seas Cruising Association and the United States Power Squadrons.

Too Far Gone?

How do you tell how badly oxidized your hull is? Rub the surface with a clean rag. If the chalky surface rubs off on to the rag, your gelcoat is heavily oxidized.

Single Part Solutions

There are literally hundreds of different products on the market, all touting to be the best cure for dull, faded gelcoat. One-part cleaner/wax products are a good place to start. These compounds are usually some form of wax combined with a very mild cleaner, a very mild abrasive compound and sometimes a lubricant. Applied with a buffer, they do a good job on mildly dulled or chalked finishes.

A step up, but still single part products are the restorer/wax compounds. These typically have a more aggressive rubbing compound than the cleaner/waxes. Some products claim to have an abrasive that continues to break down when being applied, producing a finer and finer finish.

Multi Part Solutions

There is another class of products touted to be the best solution for faded and chalky gelcoat. These products are usually in the form of an acrylic or similar coating, much like floor wax. These liquids are very thin and easily applied. They quickly dry, leaving behind a waterproof coating that fills in the gelcoat surface to form a shiny layer. Since the coating is very thin, multiple coats are usually required.

As with any treatment, the preparation is to properly clean the hull. These kits include cleaners and surface prep products as well as the finishing product. In worst cases, the manufacturer recommends a light sanding with 800 or 600 grit sandpaper to eliminate the chalking. These compounds are then usually applied by wiping on to the gelcoat with an applicator pad or clean rag. This application is very easy, needing nothing like the skill required in painting, for example.

The downside to these products is that the coating will wear away or turn yellow. Depending on the conditions, I’ve heard terms from one to three years for the life of these finishes. In most cases, a yearly reapplication of several coats is suggested. After that, a total reapplication, using the manufacturers cleaner, is needed. Again, the selling point is the ease of application and the instant shine achieved.

Polish and Wax

A mild abrasive compound is deemed a polish while abrasives that are more aggressive are called rubbing compounds. In this case, I’m talking about using one of those polishes and then a wax, not a combined product. Polishes are best applied with a buffer and a clean pad. I usually have several pads handy and change them out regularly as they become dirty.

Apply the polish and buff out until the gel coat color is uniform and glossy. Don’t buff at high speed or you risk overheating the surface. Once the color is uniform, apply a good quality paste wax for maximum protection and shine. Most paste waxes will last three to six months, so re-wax appropriately.

Compound, Polish and Wax

Compounding is usually the last process used, before giving up and repainting the boat. Rubbing compound comes in variations from mild to heavy-duty. It is usually applied to the surface and then buffed with a power buffer. Change pads often as they tend to get clogged with the rubbing compound and gelcoat.

The results you are looking for are a uniform color and smooth satin finish. The more aggressive rubbing compound won’t produce a shine; the surface then has to be polished. The shine is brought out by using a polish. After polishing, an application of a good paste wax should result in an almost showroom new finish.

by Captain Pauley Esterly

Paul’s involvement in boating dates back to the early sixties. He spent five years working for West Marine in store management as well as developing and holding store seminars and organizing district events. He is currently based at the head of the Chesapeake Bay where he maintains his small fleet of classic plastic sailboats, which provide the subject matter for Paul’s many do-it-yourself boating articles. He is active in Boating Writers International, Seven Seas Cruising Association and the United States Power Squadrons.

Optional boating safety equipment is like icing on the safety cake. The Coast Guard requirements meet the essential ingredients for boating safety, but the following items increase your odds of staying safe on the water or a speedy rescue in the event the worst happens:

VHF-FM Marine Radio

Either fixed or hand-held, marine VHF-FM radios give you edge over calling for help on a cell phone because you can speak directly with the Coast Guard on Channel 16, which never has spotty reception, and other boaters who may be nearby can hear your distress call.

EPIRB or PLB

An Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacon (EPIRB) or a Personal Locator Beacon (PLB) sends a distress signal with your exact coordinates for increased likelihood of rescue. An EPIRB can be self-activating when immersed in water, or activated by hand and worn on a person or attached to a boat. A PLB is a simplified and often less expensive alternative to an EPIRB.

Nautical Charts

Nautical charts provide essential information about the area you are boating in. They not only help you navigate safely, but they show you the depth of water, underwater obstructions, and aids to navigation such as buoys and lights, and danger areas.

GPS / Radar

A GPS is a useful item to tell you where in the world you are, and if you get lost while boating, say in the fog, a GPS can give you the coordinates to help you find your way again. Your coordinates can also be passed to the Coast Guard in an emergency making it easier to locate. A RADAR shows objects that may obstruct your path and vessels that may propose a collision risk. Finally, a Chart Plotter is nautical chart at your fingertips that provides real-time chart information as you drive. They often include a GPS and RADAR, making them a perfect boating safety accessory.

Throwable Life Ring

Simple yet effective a throwable life ring becomes a lifeline in the event of a man overboard. If equipped with a strobe light, it can also provide an effective search and rescue tool if the person can not be recovered immediately, such as in the case of a person going over at night and who may be injured.

Distress Signal Devices (Flares)

Distress signal flares are used by mariners to indicate an emergency. They work by alerting nearby boaters, people on land or search and rescue personnel through the use of bright lights in white or red and orange, which are the international distress colors. This guide to distress signal devices, otherwise known as flares, will show you the types of flares and their uses aboard your boat.

Day Distress Signals

There are two types day distress signals – an orange distress flag or orange smoke handheld flares. The orange flag is an international distress symbol that can be seen for miles and is best used by placing it high on your vessel so that, if possible, it can be seen by air and by sea. Hand-held orange smoke flares are also visually striking by emitting a large cloud of orange smoke. When using these flares, keep in mind that they only last about a minute, so deploy them when you have the greatest opportunity of being spotted by air or vessel traffic.

Day/Night Combination Signals

The most commonly known visual distress signals are red flares. Red flares can be found in hand-held devices and in arial devices that shoot a flare into the sky. Most are approved for day and night use by the U.S. Coast Guard.

The hand-held devices work by emitting a bright red light, roughly about 700 candlepower for nearly 3 minutes. They are useful to direct rescuers to your location and work best when rescue is near.

Arial red flares are sent up into the sky using a launching device and can be seen from a great distance. They burn for about 5 – 6 seconds, alerting others boats and land goers to a distress either in the day or at night.

Another type of arial flare is the parachute flare, available in white or red. Parachute flares on average can be seen up to 25 miles away, go up to 375 feet and burn for almost 7 seconds. They are the most powerful arial launched flare available. They are approved for either day or night use.

Distress Kits

Most distress signal manufacturers offer kits with a combination of electric flashing white lights, whistles, a distress flag, day smoke signals and both hand-held and arial day/night combination flares. A kit can give you everything you need to meet federal requirements while taking the guesswork out of purchasing flares.

The Coast Guard requires all vessels over 16 ft. to carry a varying combination of day and night visual signal devices depending upon the size of your boat for good reason – when used properly, they can save lives. Be sure to replace yours by the expiration date and store them in a dry compartment so they will be ready if you ever need them.

by Ericka Watson

Ericka began her career in the U.S. Coast Guard where she learned expert boating and seamanship skills as a certified Coxswain of a 47′ Motor Life Boat and high-speed small boats.  As a Coxswain, she led search-and-rescue and law enforcement operations in the Puget Sound and during Operation Enduring Freedom in Guantanamo Bay, Cuba.  After six years, she left the Coast Guard and is now an award-winning writer who currently writes about boating related topics as the Guide to Powerboating for About.com.

When it comes to boating, safety is paramount. But how do you know which safety items are essential or just nice to have in a case of emergency? To be sure, investing in boating safety gear can get costly, but the price is small in comparison to injuries or lost lives. When outfitting your boat, prioritize the essential boating safety gear first, then move on to the other non-essential, but nice to have items.

Essential Boating Safety Gear

The essential boating safety gear includes all the items boaters are required to carry by the U.S. Coast Guard by boat size. Not all boats are required to carry certain items, but here is a list of items that boats of all sizes are required to carry:

Life Jackets

One Type III Coast Guard approved jacket for each person on board must be within reach while underway at all times. Children 13 and under are required to wear a life jacket.

Visual Distress Signal

Visual distress signals, also called flares, are deployed during emergencies to signal distress to nearby boaters and emergency personnel. The Coast Guard requires one of the following: one orange distress flag and electric distress light; or three hand-held or floating orange smoke signals and one electric distress light; or three day/night red flares that are hand-held, meteor or parachute type.

These are only the minimum requirements. A good practice to follow would be to carry an electric distress light, a distress flag, orange smoke signals and day/night red flares. Each flare is beneficial in different situations and if something has happened while boating that requires a distress signal, getting the attention of a fellow boater or a person on land is critical.

All flares have expiration dates, so be sure to replace yours before that date, disposing of your old ones in the proper manner. Do not ever shoot off old flares, instead check with your local Coast Guard station or boating safety agency for proper disposal.

Fire Extinguisher

Perhaps nothing is more frightening aboard a boat than a fire. All boats should carry at least one marine Type USCG B – I fire extinguisher, but boats larger than 16 feet are required by the Coast Guard to have one on board if there is an inboard engine, enclosed compartments where combustible materials are stored, closed living spaces or permanently installed fuel tanks. Boats than 26 feet or larger are allowed to carry two to three Type USCG B – II fire extinguishers.

Be sure to properly maintain the charge of the fire extinguisher by inspecting it often and having it recharged when the gauge falls into the red.

Sound Producing Device

Sound carries over water very efficiently, so being able to make a sufficient sound to attract attention can aid in a speedy rescue. Bells, whistles and air horns make ideal sound producing devices and meet the Coast Guard requirements. The boat’s horn is also sufficient, however it is always a good idea to carry another sound signal that is independent of the vessel itself. If you opt for an air horn, check it periodically to be sure it is full.

Shurhold Paddle

Although not required by the U.S. Coast Guard

For more information about the Coast Guard Safety Requirements, visit www.uscgboating.org.

by Ericka Watson

Ericka began her career in the U.S. Coast Guard where she learned expert boating and seamanship skills as a certified Coxswain of a 47′ Motor Life Boat and high-speed small boats.  As a Coxswain, she led search-and-rescue and law enforcement operations in the Puget Sound and during Operation Enduring Freedom in Guantanamo Bay, Cuba.  After six years, she left the Coast Guard and is now an award-winning writer who currently writes about boating related topics as the Guide to Powerboating for About.com.

Boating can be an enjoyable family activity with fun for the whole family, no matter their size or age. But, as with any potentially dangerous sport, safety gear is essential. Just like knee pads for skateboarders and helmets for bicycles, a children’s life vest is necessary, even required boating safety gear for children under 13. Here are a few things to keep in mind when selecting a life jacket for your child:

Sizes

Children’s life vests are sold by weight divisions of 0 – 30 pounds, 30 – 50 pounds, and 50 – 90 pounds. The 0 – 30 pound size is generally referred to as an infant life jacket, but keep in mind that some infants are too small for even the smallest size of life jacket. The weights are general guides for the amount of floatation each jacket provides. A 30 – 50 pound life jacket should generally keep a child in that weight range afloat, with their head out of the water. Occasionally, you may need to go up a size to accommodate weight, but do not compromise on fit and do not purchase an adult life jacket for a child.

How They Work

The single most important feature of a child’s life vest is that they are designed to prevent drowning by turning a child who may be face down in the water over onto their back and supporting their head. Most child life jackets also have a strap that goes between the legs and fastens to the jacket so that it doesn’t ride up or slip off while the child is in the water.

Selecting and Fitting a Child’s Life Vest

Always buy a Coast Guard approved life vest. When purchasing a life vest for your child, fit is the most important, so after fastening the clasps and securing the straps, be sure that it fits snugly by tugging it at the shoulders. If it rides up, it is too large. If possible, test drive it by having the child wear it while they are in the water. Be sure that it will support them and turn them over in the water. If it doesn’t, return it and purchase a different brand. Life jackets for older children generally do not have the head support or the straps, but should still fit snugly and have enough floatation to keep the older child afloat.

Life jackets only work when they are worn, so teach your child how to put on their life jacket and be sure to comply with federal law by having your children who are under 13 wear theirs whenever you are underway.

There should be a law that boat designers should be forced to service their own boats. That might make common maintenance tasks, like changing engine oil, a little easier. In most inboard or I/O engine installations, changing engine oil is looked on with the same fervor as going to the dentist.

Most marine engine manufacturers recommend changing engine oil every 100 to 200 hours of operation or at least annually. Frankly, most marine engines aren’t used often enough to cause any appreciable amount of breakdown in the oil. However, the marine environment means that there may well be moisture accumulating in the idle engine. Changing engine oil on a regular basis (as well as the filter) will help prolong the life of your engine.

If you are one of the lucky ones who can get a drain pan under the engine and easily drain the oil, consider yourself lucky and retire to the bar. For the rest of us, we’ll cover various methods of draining the oil, from simple to complex.

Preparation

Make a few simple preparations before changing oil, regardless of how simple or complex your oil-changing method is. The first step is to properly warm up your engine. There are several reasons for this. First, warm oil is easier to drain out of the engine. Second, the whole reason behind changing the oil is to get all the contaminates out of the engine with the oil. Running the engine puts all the crud that settled out in the bottom of the oil pan back in suspension in the oil.

Make sure you have enough containers to hold all the old oil. Many people use old plastic milk jugs to hold the oil. Tight fitting tops lessen the likelihood of a messy spill. Have a good supply of oil absorbing pads ready to deploy around and under the engine. Have enough of the right grade of oil and the proper filter at hand. Don’t forget the filter wrench.

Simple – Manual Systems

The simplest oil change systems are manual pumps that access the engine oil through the dipstick tube. A small flexible tube is snaked down the dipstick tube to the bottom of the oil pan and the oil is then sucked out.

There are three main styles of manual pumps readily available at your marine store. The first is a metal container with a pump attached. The pickup tube that goes into the pickup tube fits into a larger tube with a pinch clamp. This clamp seals off the hose and allows the pump to build up a vacuum in the metal container. When the clamp is loosened, the vacuum sucks out the oil.

These pumps are simple, well built and last for years. The downside is that the capacity o the container is limited and may require emptying during the course of an oil change. The pickup tube is easily snaked down the dipstick but is a little on the small side, resulting in a slower flow of oil.

There is also a plastic bodied manual pump. This pump has a direct action in that the handle is moved up and down to directly suck the oil into the plastic container. This means you don’t have to stop and build up a vacuum as in the pump mentioned above. However, Like that pump, capacity of the container is limited and may require emptying during the course of an oil change.

The last style of pump is a handheld piston pump. This pump has a pickup hose that either screws onto a threaded dipstick tube or is snaked down through the tube and an output hose. In fact, it looks like a small version of a handheld bilge pump. The output hose is directed into a container (milk jug?) to hold the oil while the pump is held and the handle pushed in and out.

The pump capacity is small, making the oil change a long and tiring effort. The loose output tube stuffed into a jug is a mess just waiting to happen. You did put oil pads under the jugs, didn’t you?

Simple – Electric Systems

Okay, the manual pumps sound like a lot of work, so let’s see what electricity can do for us. The simplest electric pump is the drill pump. The pump uses a rubber impeller in a plastic housing to pump the oil. The motive power for this style pump is a drill. You tighten the pump shaft in the drill chuck and turn it on.

Of course, you have the input tube stuck down the dipstick tube, the output tube stuck into a jug, the pump body in one hand and the drill motor in the other. See any potentially messy problems here? One other caveat, make sure the impeller in the pump is rated for petroleum products; some pumps are only rated for water.

Pumps mounted on buckets are a step up from the handheld drill pumps. These have a (usually) 12 volt impeller pump mounted on the lid a of a three to five gallon metal or plastic bucket. A power cord with alligator clips on the end allows the pump to be connected to a 12-volt battery for power. Most have on-off switches and some have reversing switches so the contents of the bucket can be pumped out.

The input hose can be a type that screws onto a threaded dipstick or have a tube to snake down through the dipstick. There are a few nagging problems with this style of pump. Empty, they are top heavy and hard to store. Some users solve this problem by keeping the pump in a plastic milk crate for stability. Put an oil pad in the bottom of the crate to soak up any dribbles. It is sometimes hard to find a stable flat location for the pump in the bilge of the boat and ready access to 12-volt power may be problematic. Filled, the bucket is a heavy object to move around and off the boat.

One refinement in using this system is to replace the oil pan drain plug with an elbow and a length of hose. The other end of the hose comes out from under the engine and can be connected to the pump/bucket. Make sure the hose is rated for petroleum products, can be sealed at the open end and isn’t subject to chafe or wear.

Complex Systems

Many larger boats, especially trawlers, have permanently installed oil-changing systems. These usually consist of hoses from the bottom of the oil pans connected to a manifold and pump assembly. This manifold and pump assembly is permanently bolted to a bulkhead.

There are several different models available. Variations allow from one to five or six connections to be drained through the manifold. Why five or six? Twin engines with transmissions as well as gen sets can all be connected to a manifold/pump unit and drained AND REFILLED selectively. When contemplating an oil change on a big Caterpillar main propulsion engine, it’s transmission and a 7.5 KW genset; you don’t want to be thinking about a three or five-gallon portable bucket pump.

Many of these systems are professionally installed but are certainly within the capabilities of a dedicated boater. The pumps, manifolds and connectors are available though most marine stores. The hoses used are 1/2-inch type A petroleum rated hose. Runs over ten feet long should use 5/8-inch hoses. Make sure you have the right oil pan fittings, as there are several different sizes, including metric fittings. Cross threading an oil pan fitting will certainly ruin your day as well as the pan.

Oil Disposal

No oil change is complete until the old oil is properly disposed of. Many, if not most, marinas have proper places for disposing of old oil. If not, many auto parts stores will also accept used oil free or for a nominal price. Be careful in moving the containers around, you are liable for spills, whether from fuel or oil.

There is another way of disposing of old engine oil if you have a diesel engine, mixing it with the diesel fuel. This is a very controversial subject among the diesel folks, some swear by and others at it. The idea is that you can mix up to 10% old oil in the diesel fuel. The oil should be filtered and well mixed with some diesel before being put into the tank.

It’s probably not a good idea in places with many proper disposal sites. However, if you were on a long cruise or at sea with no proper facilities, it would be better to burn it than dumping it over the side. As mentioned above, it is controversial and not a universally accepted practice.

by Captain Pauley Esterly

Paul’s involvement in boating dates back to the early sixties. He spent five years working for West Marine in store management as well as developing and holding store seminars and organizing district events. He is currently based at the head of the Chesapeake Bay where he maintains his small fleet of classic plastic sailboats, which provide the subject matter for Paul’s many do-it-yourself boating articles. He is active in Boating Writers International, Seven Seas Cruising Association and the United States Power Squadrons.